Fri. 6-18-20:
Recycle $3.81 of cans and bottles to do laundry. A street lady walks by with a small container of butter pecan ice cream, asking, “Do you want half? It’s too much for me.” We accept the offer. She promptly produces a knife, cutting the entire container perfectly in half.
Meet Justin at the supermarket just before sunset.Remember Justin, the cool young owl counter we rode out to California with some weeks ago? He and two of his coworkers of roughly the same age, Dax and Emily, made the six-hour drive from Quincy to spend the weekend hiking the Lost Coast. Sarah and I pack tightly into Dax’s worn old white Jeep. Water leaks from a radiator hose and the brakes nearly fail on infamous Shelter Cove Road. Arrival to Black Sands Beach just as nighttime blackness sets in.
I had been a bit weary of trying to find a campsite at night, but what a surprise! The half-moon shining through the clear sky made for the most wonderful nocturnal beach hike, the best scene one could hope for on this undeveloped 37-mile stretch of coastline known for dreariness as much as beauty.
An hour’s walk. Strong winds cut to half their strength as we proceed deeper into a wide cove. The roar of the waves lessens with the shallowing of the waters. Rocks and shoals hundreds of feet out, a boater’s nightmare crash scene but a most peaceful campsite. Tamed waves allow for the ability to walk right up to the ocean’s edge, viewing the reflections of the moonlight across the tidal pools.
Thanks to numerous creeks flowing from the mountains to the ocean, the supply of driftwood is plentiful. Previous campers have constructed a fire ring of 75-pound boulders and drug massive logs in around it as benches. Home sweet home. The fire is roaring within minutes of our arrival. Shooting stars streak among the million stationary ones, with the edge of the Milky Way being the dominant feature.
We share ales around the fire, out feet dug into the soft black sand. Unlike Justin, Dax and Emily have already finished their university studies. Dax is from Reno, Emily from Loisville, both thoughtful, soft spoken and well-kempt. All three are on a team studying spotted owls for the US Forest Service. They hoot out a few sample calls, tell of a colleague who recently took talons to the back of the head, causing much bleeding. “Owls are very territorial”, Emily explains, “He had white hair and the owl probably thought he was another owl.”
Sarah hears an odd noise. It’s Justin’s tent rolling away towards the water. He gives chase, catching his fleeing sleeping quarters not a second too soon. The ocean is jealous. It wants a tent like that. Wants to show it off in Hawaii or Japan, but Sarah’s keen hearing ruins its day. The ocean, though, known for persistence, is not yet done. Its second attempt is foiled because I decide to take a bathroom break at the exact right moment. The tent blows into me as I’m staring at the sky. On both of these attempts, the odds had been greatly in favor of the ocean getting Justin’s tent. We dissuaded further attempts by piling boulders on the stakes.
The moon turns to orange as it nears descent over the horizon. Distant clouds cut through it in the moments of departure.
Sat. 6-19-10:
Best tent sleep ever, thanks to the soft sand and ocean sounds. I only briefly awoke on a couple occasions during the highest tide when a wave or two had crashed a bit too close for comfort. All but Emily described just as peaceful of a sleep. She, as it turns out, does not sleep well in new places, which must make Forest Service life a bit rough at times.
Still a perfectly clear sky! The drizzle forecast had been defied. I grill flatbread salami sandwiches on a flat rock angled towards a small fire, sharing them with all. Numerous fellow hikers pass by, with one such group having secretly resided all night on a hillside just feet away. An apparent family, father, daughter, son and dog, had surely been awakened by our late-night fireside chat, yet they claim not having realized our presence till morning.
The huge one-gallon bag of trail mix that Sarah and I had packed is gone by mid-day. The winds again begin to roar as we follow the curvature of the coastline towards a more westerly heading, out of the cove that had provided some overnight protection. The mountains rise at nearly vertical angles from sea level upwards of 500 feet. The drop is almost entirely vertical where complete halves of mountains have slid off into the ocean.
All vertical drops, high or low, contain no vegetation, very dangerous places to hang out. Stand at the bottom of such a place and experience a sound like rain, which is countless grains of sand falling all around you, an endless ongoing landslide. Stand at the bottom of such a place for a considerable length of time and surely experience a nasty bump on the head. In an attempt to take shelter from the wind, Sarah and I last all of about sixty seconds at the bottom of a relatively small cliff, until the earth releases a torrent of pea-sized pebbles.
An octopus of over ten pounds, one of its tentacles ripped off, lies upside down, gently heaving on the beach, its movements only visible under close inspection. Fields of boulders protrude from the water at points in the land. White and brown seals have taken over one such boulder field, barking from the tops of the largest rocks. Sarah and a baby seal surprise each other at close proximity, with the frightened creature frantically slithering back off into the water.
Waterfalls are ever-present, dozens of them, flowing right out of solid rock in the mountainsides. Some fall from hundreds of feet, others appear at near sea level. These are rather tame flows in most instances, no more than the volume of a bathtub tap. Due to the extremely rocky nature of this beach, the water flows underneath the surface, disappearing at the base of the falls and reappearing near the ocean’s edge. There are only a handful of exceptions, where the volume of water is sufficient to cut a channel through the beach. However, these flows are all quite shallow, possible to boulder hop across without wet shoes.
The beach narrows, becomes much more treacherous with larger boulders, a section impassible during high tide. Some four hours of hiking and we come to a vast flat grassland no more than 20 feet in elevation, a wonderfully hard and flat reprieve for our feet. Some half-mile later across this grassy terrain we come to the largest flowing body of water encountered yet. Here marks our campsite for the evening, among a sandy grove of short scraggly trees just 100 feet from the ocean shore.
Fields of driftwood and softball-sized rocks extend a quarter-mile inland to the base of the mountain range, showing that the waves crash there regularly in times of severe winter weather. Massive driftwood trunks of up to 6-feet in diameter, 40 feet in length, lie scattered about. Among the natural sea litter are a few man-made objects, apparently sections of large steel ships that have been torn apart. Nearly tame deer forage among this strange landscape, not bothering to move unless directly approached.
Sarah and I sit with Justin on a huge log that rests in a deep portion of the creek. The whole group has a tea party together in the campsite. We share a dinner of pasta and tomato sauce with two bottles of wine by firelight.